The Moon

I hope anyone reading this is staying safe. I am doing my best to which is staying away from as many people as I can and wearing a mask when I can’t.

So I went out to get pictures of NEOWISE with a friend at Seven Magic Mountains outside of Las Vegas. We got some pictures of it. While we were there I pointed my camera at the moon and he seemed surprised when I told him my settings. They were 210mm, iso 400, f4.0, and 1/1250. From my experience of taking pictures of the moon only manual exposure works. If I had a greater focal length then it might not be an issue, currently though I am limited to 300mm max well technically it would be 450mm with the crop factor. It might work with adjusting the exposure compensation. I am of a mind that if I have the time I might as well go full manual if I need to adjust exposure comp.

The problem with small bright objects in a night frame is that they get blown out. The camera tries to bring the whole screen to an even exposure. A night scene generally doesn’t want that. A night sky is supposed to look nearly black. At 300mm the Moon doesn’t take up enough room in the frame to make a big difference to the sensor. So it treats it as a mostly dark frame and over exposes the moon, which leaves a bright spot in a black frame because the sensor is trying to get a curve in the histogram. It can’t because there is to much difference between the bright Moon and the dark sky. So you get an overexposed moon with very little detail. This was taken at 210mm 1/15 second iso 400 f5 which is what my camera meter said was was exposed properly. Click on it to zoom in for detail.

As seen above the camera doesn’t always know what is correct. Granted this has limited editing, I only changed the WB. If I wanted I could bring down some of the highlights and get more detail. Or I could not listen to the camera and get a better exposure. I took it again with what looked correct to me in manual. The camera said it was very under exposed. Click to zoom.

I included the full image in here to illustrate how little of the frame the moon will fill. With a longer focal length this might be a non issue. Even with a 300mm lens attached to a crop sensor it is still an issue. I hope this was informative. If you have any questions feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer. Again stay safe and wear a mask.

~Scott

Situational Packing

Good morning,

Sorry it has been so long, work and holiday stuff has been taking  a toll. Today we are going to talk about packing gear. Most photographers have more gear than can easily be packed into something that is portable like a backpack. Take the example below.

This is digital cameras a57 on top and a77 on the bottom, then lenses and flashes. This is just the basics not counting chargers, batteries, filters, etc. For size reference each square is 6 inches.

Now most of us probably don't want to have a rolling suitcase in tow or have the ability to have an assistant carry our gear. Most people opt for a backpack or an over the shoulder bag for storage.

Here is my trusty camera bag with a storage area on top. With kids as travel companions it is quite handy. Even with the flap open is doesn't cover the same amount of 6x6 tiles that my gear does.

Situational packing is key for this situation. We can't always bring every piece of gear that we have. First off we can knock out one long zoom, not great lighting anticipated take the faster 70-210 f4, or do we need a little extra zoom the 75-300mm f4.5-5.6 is better. Is macro photography the goal, take the 50mm f2.8 macro if not then the 50mm f1.7. Just those 2 drop it to 6 from 8. Now comes the trickier part. Are wide landscapes or getting the whole room in the frame the goal? If so take the 11-18mm instead of the 35-70mm. If not then we can switch those. If we are taking the 35-70 then the ultra wide and 50mm can be left at home unless you need the 50 for macro. Keeping one lens with a wide aperture is a good rule, in this case it is either one of the 50mm lenses or the 28mm f2.8. The 35-70 covers the 50mm range so the 28mm would be in the bag, if the 11-18 is going then so is a 50mm. Through our image processing software we can see which lenses we use the most to help decide what to pack. Just what has been covered with the lenses cuts them by half.

Not everyone has more than one camera body. So this might not pertain to everyone. If we do though then this is a choice to be made as well. If the situation requires a quick lens change or missing the shot (wedding, sporting event, children playing, etc) then bring two if not then one should suffice. If the environment is not a place we want to change a lens (windy, sandy, dusty, etc) then bring two with the lenses attached that will most likely be used. Most times one camera is fine.

Now to the flashes. If you need them bring them if you don't then don't. If people indoors or in shaded areas are the subject being them though. There are so many times that a fast lens doesn't suffice in those situations.

I will be adding a picture soon of typical packing for different situations.

Histogram and Perfect Exposure

Good evening,

Today I am going to talk about the histogram which is I believe the defining thing for a "perfect exposure." The histogram is a graph of how much brightness vs darkness you have in an image. On the left we have black and on the right we have white, then bottom to top is how much you have in each. Some histograms like below have colors to go along with them and others just have a black and white graph.

Perfect

This is what our histogram would say is a "perfect" exposure. Not that there is anything wrong with it. Notice on the histogram that everything is right in the middle nothing goes all the way off to the sides or the top.

Highlight

Here we have a highlight image. My daughter was sitting in a little alcove to get out of the sun. If you notice on the histogram there is a spike all the way to the right and some even goes off of it. This is called clipping, in this case highlight clipping, which means there is no image detail in that area it is just white. Generally not a desired characteristic in images. Leaving the image with the highlights shows that it was a really bright day and there was a need to seek shade from the blazing sun. Not "perfect." It works though with what I wanted to express.

Shadow

Now it is the opposite end, shadow clipping. Parts of the pier have no detail, there is also highlights in this where the sun is. I can brighten it but then I start to get to many highlights, I would prefer to just leave the pier as a silhouette so that I can retain colors in the sky and the reflection. Again not "perfect." It portrays what I wanted though and the way that I saw it.

The camera wants to make the images be in middle ground. Sometimes that doesn't leave us with an image that portrays the mood or feel of what we see at the moment. So we change it and take control away from the camera. If we are in the semi manual modes then we can use exposure compensation (it looks like a little +/- icon) to make the image our own. or go to full manual and have complete control over the exposure.

In manual if we want it a little darker or brighter we can just make an adjustment to the shutter, aperture, or iso to achieve the desired effect. each one can change the way the picture looks as previously discussed. Now go out and shoot. Enjoy it, experiment.

~Scott